Fastpacking the 4 Refugios of Patagonia

Words by Georgia Danielson, Photos by Leonardo Brasil

Trail running opens up the world. Just about anywhere, you can find trails or dirt roads that will lead to one-of-a-kind adventures beyond races or guidebooks. 

Perusing maps of Northern Patagonia, I discovered not only a trail network, but refugios deep in the mountains. The refugios are fully staffed to accommodate trekkers and, for some, skiers in the winter. You can trek in, get dinner, have a warm place to sleep, and then breakfast in the morning. 

For runners who love to travel light and fast through technical terrain, these fully-stocked rest stops completely transform what’s possible. With specialized gear, you’re able to travel far lighter, faster, and more comfortably, while accessing incredible terrain that would take far longer with double the weight. 

The refugios are reminiscent of those in the European Alps, which makes sense because they were modeled after Italian and Swiss huts to make the mountains more accessible. But unlike the Alps, the mountains of Patagonia are exposed and truly wild. Between the trails and the refugios, you’re able to design routes that reward endurance and efficiency while experiencing iconic alpine terrain, from scrambling steep ridgelines to cruising through dense forests and everything in between. 

I first discovered the 4 Refugios Trek outside of San Carlos de Bariloche in March of 2025. The route covers 28 miles and approximately 13,000 feet of elevation gain and loss. It passes four full-service refugios, with some of the world’s most stunning and challenging alpine terrain in between.

THE 4 REFUGIOS, 4 WAYS

The real luxury of refugios is that they give you the option to choose your own adventure. Most people hike the route over four to five days, staying at each hut along the way. Conversely, the route can be completed in one long day. 

In 2025, I completed the route over two days, balancing speed with exploration. The first day is relatively straightforward, with only one true crux of a climb and descent. The second day, however, is far more challenging and took twice as long to complete.

Returning in 2026 with Leo, we intended to complete the trek over three days, focusing on taking photos in addition to the adventure. The weather, however, had other plans.

DAY 1

On our first day, we ran out the door of Hotel Catedral in Villa Catedral toward the first hut, Refugio Frey. When we reached Frey, the wind had started to pick up, signaling bad weather on the way. As soon as we reached the top of the second pass—where we would descend to Refugio Jakob, our home for the night—the wind escalated to gale force.

Jakob is perched on a rock above a small lake, with towering mountains on all sides. It feels impossible that a structure could exist there at all. When we arrived, we joined a full house of trekkers who had come in from Frey—perhaps 20 people, including the four hosts.

As we prepped dinner, low clouds rolled in and the rain began. We chatted with the hosts and other trekkers. Normally, getting wet is just an inconvenience as long as you can stay warm enough.

But this was different. The trail between Refugio Jakob and Laguna Negra/Refugio Italia is only five miles, but it includes a short Class 5 section where slipping is highly consequential. In fact, the refugio hosts require you to sign a waiver acknowledging the risks before continuing. 

When I completed the route the year before, I thought the waiver seemed unnecessary. But when I reached the section, I realized it was no joke. As I climbed and started passing bolts, I thought, damn—if I fall, this will not be good. Wet, this section is impassable.

Leo and I weighed our options. The weather was predicted to stay poor for at least two more days—a long time to wait it out in the refugio.

The alternative was to descend an 8-mile trail back to a village called Colonia Suiza, wait out the weather at our hotel, get some work done, and then, once conditions improved, take another trail from Colonia Suiza to Laguna Negra/Refugio Italia.

This was the most reasonable option. Patagonia weather is highly variable, where conditions can change by the hour. This means that being prepared for anything and staying adaptable is everything—from rain and wind on a remote and exposed ridgeline to searing sun for hours on a waterless mountain face. The right gear and enough food and water is imperative, but the most important tool in the mountains is good judgement. 

The upside to changing our plan was that we got to experience entirely different trails, canyons, and rivers that we otherwise wouldn’t have seen. The valleys were lush, full of green, water, and life. Fog rolled through the trees, creating a tangible sense of drama.

ROUND 2

Once the weather stabilized, we returned to the mountains, following a river toward Refugio Italia. Here, we encountered our second logistical challenge. The refugios require reservations made in advance online. There was only one reservation left, so we hoped we might share a bed or figure something out when we arrived—not recommended. Always follow the rules.

When we saw a sign requesting that visitors carry up wood to help supply the refugio, we grabbed as much as we could carry. If we hauled all that wood up, how could they turn us away? It turned out not to be a problem, and they offered two beds. 

THE LAST DAY

The final day was our longest and most adventurous yet. As soon as we left Refugio Italia, the route followed the edge of the lake, where we scrambled along rock slabs with chains to hold onto. Once we left the water behind, the climbing continued. The route stayed alpine for the rest of the day, gaining elevation until the long final descent to the highway.

The crux of the day is a scree field over a pass—exceptionally loose, steep, slow, and not to be underestimated. While fitness will allow you to endure the day, movement efficiency becomes crucial in terrain like that, and that difference can mean hours. Rather than following a ridgeline, the marked route leads straight up a gully. When Leo fully realized our route, he could only laugh. 

When we finally topped out, we could see lakes in the distance—and, perhaps, the highway far beyond. It’s a long way from that peak to the road. With Refugio Lopez teetering on the edge of the treeline, we stopped for sandwiches. Here, the landscape transforms from exposed rock and relentless sun to the forgiving cover of trees and soft, dusty trails.

We passed the final refugio, Rocca Negra. It’s stunning, but it only serves lunch and dinner until 7 p.m. with no overnight stays.

Descending through the forest and along the river, we finally reached the road—marked by a glorious wooden hot dog signaling the finish, and a real hot dog of victory at the concession stand. 

FINAL THOUGHTS 

Trail running can open up the world in a powerful way. This is especially true in Patagonia, where there’s nothing like running ridgelines between the remote refugios in one of the wildest places on earth. If you’re prepared and stay adaptable, there is no place too far. 

If you want to do The 4 Refugios route, keep in mind:

• Patagonia weather is extremely variable. Come prepared and be ready to adapt.

• While the refugios alleviate some weight and logistics, the mountains in Patagonia are still raw, challenging, and not to be underestimated.

•  Consider your comfort level with exposed 5th-class scrambling.

• The more you can dial in your gear beforehand, the more enjoyable the experience will be.

• Don’t overpack - the beauty of fastpacking and refefugos is that you don’t have to carry nearly as much. Don’t overfill your pack just because you’re used to it.