ARPIA V

The moment I put on a new pair it's comfortable while also suctioning to my feet. There is a bit of a breaking in period but it's never painful only discomfort at first. This shoe allowed me to expand my climbing capabilities without sacrificing comfort. I don't think I'll ever buy another shoe unless they manage to top this one. The snugger they are to your feet the longer the rubber toe end will last as well. Also it is very easy to downsize 2.5+ euro sizes or more from your everyday shoes for optimal fit

Shoe length is true to size, good compression on the toe, and nice form to the sole. However, it's way too wide. Ankle rolls around loose, and top velcro strap is way long so it flaps and can easily get caught/ be undone when climbing. Would not recommend unless you really downsize, which could get the width right but then is too compressed on the toes. Basically width to length ratios are off with this one.

I have climbed in the old Arpia and my performance shoe is the Instinct VS. The new Arpia V fits nicely into the niche below the Instinct. I have used them indoors and outdoors about a dozen days already. They have a wide forefoot and are very comfortable without sacrificing performance. I use them for all my indoor bouldering and as my outdoor shoe on everything but my project burns. They run a bit bigger than the Instinct VS. I wear a 44 in the Instinct and got these as a 44 also. Were I to buy them again I would size down a half size to get better performance. I would definitely recommend them for anyone looking for a shoe to bridge the gap between entry level and toe crushers.

I've owned a handful of Scarpa shoes, Veloce, Vapor V, Instinct VS, and the new Arpia seems to be the best middle-ground between them all that I've been able to find.

I'd say they run a tiny bit larger than the Veloces length-wise, but are a bit narrower. I'm a big guy with big feet and I wore a 50 in the Vapor V and Instinct, and a 49 in the Veloce. Currently wearing a 48 in the Arpia V, and after breaking them in with a nice long session and stretching them a bit with my normal methods (shoe tree with foil balls taped to my hot spots left in between sessions), they're remarkably comfortable for my most downsized shoes to date. Sizing down a bit further seems to have fixed a potential issue with the heel - I see lots of reviews about this shoe saying the heel is too baggy, but after downsizing it really fits my foot perfectly, better than any of my other Scarpa shoes. I will say that there's a little bit of baggy material on the sides of my ankle towards the front of my foot, and from other photos I've seen that doesn't seem to be a scaling issue from smaller to larger sizes, but is simply a design issue. For that reason I'm tempted to give it 4 stars on the quality, but since I have no problem with the construction and the extra baggy material doesn't affect the shoe's performance at all, I'll leave it at a 5..

As far as comfort goes, I think a massive part of it is the lined interior vs the Vapor V and Instinct's more rough interior feeling more abrasive on my foot,…