DRAGO XT

The Drago XT is a work of art. It's truly impressive when you learn about all the components of the shoe and how it's assembled — leather and microfiber, a complicated midsole, 3 tension systems, 5 different rubbers — There's so much thought, care and detail put into it — like EVERY Scarpa show. But, what matters is how it fits YOUR foot and what YOU NEED it for. It's not for everyone, or for everything. I use it mostly for gym climbing/training because of the fit, ease of use, precision, and most importantly the medium soft stiffness profile. I could see using it very well for certain outside bouldering and route climbing for sure. For me and my feet, and primarily as a route climber, it's the best Drago with 1) a slightly taller toe box but lower overall volume everywhere, especially the heel (which is so amazing) 2) a more precise fit and adjustability with double straps 3) more stiffness for precision and support on small footholds, and also support for circuits and route climbing, 4) Coolest look. I find it's the most comfortable and best performing Drago... but you should go try them and decide for yourself.

I’ve been using the Scarpa Drago XT exclusively in the gym for both bouldering and rope climbs, and the performance has been outstanding. Sensitivity on small edges and smears is excellent, and the heel hook security is some of the best I’ve had in a Scarpa shoe. They’ve quickly become my favourite Scarpa model for this style of climbing.

I stuck with my usual Scarpa size—the same as I wear in the Instinct VSR and VSR LV—and they were comfortable right from the first session. I’m really happy with the balance of comfort and performance, but because they are a softer shoe, I can tell that dropping ½ a size from my standard Scarpa fit would give me a more powerful toe and better precision on steeper climbs and micro-edges.